Technological progress in Russian military sports suits: the history of the use of materials and fabrics from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 21st century

Alekseev Aleksei Viktorovich ORCID: 0009-0008-7609-4409 Postgraduate student, Department of Theory and History of Culture, St. Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design 18 Bolshaya Morskaya str., Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russia Alekseev261289@yandex.ru Other publications by this author

introduction

Throughout history, the materials and fabrics used by the military have been continuously improved to ensure safety, comfort and efficiency in harsh environments. At the end of the 19th century, the active development of new materials for military clothing began, including for military sports suits. For example, at the beginning of the 20th century, the first synthetic fibers appeared, such as nylon, polyester, which have high strength and water-repellent properties.

With the development of technology in the early 21st century, tracksuits for military personnel have become lighter, more breathable and more functional. The use of special membrane materials allows you to keep warm in cold conditions and not overheat in the heat. Also, the integration of innovative ventilation systems, antibacterial coatings and special reinforced zones has significantly increased the efficiency and comfort of modern tracksuits for military personnel.

Progress in the technology of sportswear for military personnel indicates a desire to improve protection and to create convenience for military personnel in various situations and conditions, including during sports and physical education. In addition, with the development of technology in the field of military sportswear, elements of smart technologies are also being actively introduced. For example, some modern suits have built-in sensors for monitoring the physiological parameters of a serviceman, such as pulse, body temperature, fatigue level and others. This data can be used for more effective control and support of the serviceman ^[1].

Modern military sports suits exhibit a high level of resistance to various operating conditions, including moisture, dust, wind and even radiation. This allows military personnel to feel comfortable in any situation. Such suits provide a high level of protection against various adverse effects ^[2]. Taking into account the constant progress in technologies and materials, modern tracksuits for military personnel are becoming more effective, functional and comfortable, providing military personnel with the necessary protection and support ^[3].

THE THEORETICAL PART

At various times, various materials were used to produce military sports suits for Russian military personnel. At the end of the 19th century, flannel, woolen fabrics, and leather were mainly used to make shoes and belts. Let's consider the main properties of the fabrics used:

1. Flannel is a soft, specially treated wool fiber fabric. It was used to make tracksuits. It has proven itself well due to its good thermal insulation properties, a high degree of comfort, and the ability to keep warm for a long time, which is especially important in the cold season. Flannel suits were comfortable and considered fashionable and stylish.

2. Woolen fabrics were also widely used in military sports suits of the late 19th century. Wool has excellent insulating properties, retaining body heat even in humid conditions. This made wool a popular choice for military clothing, providing comfort and protection.

3. Leather was used mainly for the manufacture of leather shoes, outerwear items. It was often included in military sports suits at the end of the 19th century. Leather is characterized by durability, reliability and protective properties, which made it an important component for shoes, gloves and other parts of military clothing ^[4].

These materials were often used in the complex, which made it possible to provide properties such as thermal insulation, comfort, and a sufficient level of protection, which was especially important for military sports suits of the late 19th century.

Technologies and materials have improved over time, and the source materials have changed. In the 20th century, during the Soviet period, cotton materials were mainly used. The summer uniform in the Soviet period of the 20th century was designed taking into account comfort, functionality and protection in hot weather ^[5].

The winter uniform was represented by a fur hat with earflaps, a cotton jacket, a cotton tunic, trousers, boots, a waist belt, and brown gloves. Winter uniforms in the Soviet period of the 20th century included a number of special elements that provide protection from the cold and comfort in harsh weather conditions.

Let's look at each element separately.

The cloth cap was an important element of the summer uniform in the Soviet period. Made of durable and comfortable material, this cap provided protection from the sun, dust and other external factors. Its use was common among military personnel during the hot season.

A cotton tunic and trousers were also part of the winter uniform, providing comfort and the possibility of free movement in conditions of snow and frost.

Boots, a waist belt and brown gloves complemented the image of the servicemen.  They played an important role in providing comfort, protection and functionality ^[6].

An important part of the uniform was chevrons, emblems or other insignia indicating military rank, rank or belonging to a certain military unit. These elements provided identification and had a psychological impact on both the carrier and others.

Winter uniforms in the Soviet period included specially designed elements that provide protection from the cold, comfort and functionality for military personnel in a harsh winter climate. These elements of the uniform played an important role in maintaining the combat capability and well-being of military personnel in all conditions ^[7].

A hat with earflaps with a fur lapel played an important role in protecting against the cold. The fur lapel provided warmth and protected the ears from frost, and the lightweight design of the hat provided convenience and mobility.

The overcoat was an outer garment providing warmth and protection from wind and snow. Made of durable fabric, the overcoat was an integral part of winter military equipment, providing comfort and protection in harsh climates.

The padded jacket was one of the layers of clothing in the winter uniform, providing warmth and insulation from the cold. This element of the uniform was light and warm, which allowed the servicemen to feel comfortable even on cold days ^[8].

Boots were part of the standard equipment of military personnel in winter. They were made of durable material, providing protection from dampness, cold and snow. Comfortable and reliable boots allowed military personnel to move confidently across various types of terrain ^[9].

The waist belt was used to attach various equipment and provide convenience when wearing the equipment. He was an integral part of the winter uniform, ensuring the safety and accessibility of the necessary items for completing tasks.

Brown gloves served as a means of protection from cold and frost, keeping warm in the hands of a serviceman. They also provided comfort and convenience when performing various tasks in winter conditions ^[10].

In the 19th century, with the advent of cotton fibers, a real "cotton revolution" began. Cotton has proven itself well due to its softness, durability and accessibility. In addition, cotton fibers have good breathability, the ability to absorb moisture well, they are resistant to various influences, which makes them an excellent choice for the production of military sports suits ^[8].

Thus, with the advent of cotton fiber as an important and versatile material for textiles, other natural fillers such as horsehair, flax, wool and others gradually began to be replaced in the production of various textiles, including fillers. The cotton revolution has led to changes in the textile industry and consumer preferences, making cotton one of the most common and sought-after materials in the textile manufacturing world

In the 21st century, there has been significant development and application of high-strength synthetic fibers and innovative fabrics. Synthetic materials such as polyester, nylon and spandex have become widely used due to their unique properties. They have a number of advantages.

Polyester is one of the most popular synthetic fibers in the textile industry. A distinctive feature of polyester is its high strength, high resistance to abrasion and fading. This material is able to retain its color and shape well after washing. This material is suitable for the production of sportswear, outerwear, bed linen, and other products.

Nylon has proven itself well. Its distinctive features are high strength and stability. It practically does not fade, does not wear out, is elastic, and repels water. It is used for the production of clothing for an active lifestyle, for the manufacture of hosiery products ^[11].

Spandex is an elastic material that is characterized by high strength and elasticity. It easily restores its shape, quite comfortable to wear. It is often used for the production of sportswear, underwear, swimwear and various products characterized by high elasticity. These are all products that require a good fit on the figure ^[12].

Synthetic materials are widely used today, which have various improved properties, such as water-repellent properties, thermoregulation, increased strength, ventilation ^[13]. Innovative materials make clothes more functional and comfortable ^[14]. Synthetic materials have both advantages and disadvantages. On the one hand, they do not require any special storage conditions, they are easy to care for, they dry quickly, do not crumple. Suitable for everyday use. The disadvantages of these materials include their low breathability and insufficient ventilation. This can cause some discomfort in conditions of high humidity. Therefore, when choosing a material, it is necessary to take into account all its characteristics ^[15].

THE PRACTICAL PART

Various fabrics can be used to make military tracksuits. The main characteristics of commonly used fabrics are presented in Table 1.

Table 1. – Analysis of various materials used for the manufacture of military sports uniforms

As we can see from the presented data, wool, linen and polyester have the highest indicators for such characteristics as wear resistance. Cotton has an average wear resistance. Wool, linen and polyester are highly durable. Cotton has medium strength. Wool and cotton have high breathability, whereas polyester and linen have medium breathability.

When evaluating thermal protection properties, it is important to note that wool retains heat perfectly due to its ability to retain warm air, which makes it an excellent choice for warm clothing. Cotton and linen have less pronounced thermal protection properties compared to wool, as they retain less warm air. Polyester has low thermal protection and is usually used in light clothing or in combination with other materials to improve insulation ^[16].

The main characteristics of the analyzed tissue types are shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1. - Comparative analysis of materials used in the manufacture of military sports uniforms

Thus, according to the totality of all these properties, the choice of fabric depends on the specific needs and conditions of use. Wool is great for winter clothing due to its high thermal protection properties, but may be less suitable for sportswear due to its low breathability. Cotton is suitable for summer wear due to its good breathability, but may be less wear-resistant. Polyester is good for sportswear due to its good wear resistance, but is less suitable for clothing with high thermal protection properties ^[17]. Next, we carried out a detailed comparative characteristic of the properties of tissues (Table 2).

Table 2. – Comparative characteristics of tissue properties

As you can see from the presented data, polyester has high strength. Cotton usually has good durability, but can be subject to wear and tear with frequent use. Linen has a high strength, becoming stronger with time and washing. Wool also has good strength and resistance to stretching.

The creasability of polyester is high. Cotton is prone to creasing and can crumple easily. Linen also has good crease, which gives things a sloppy look. Wool usually creases less and retains its shape better ^[18].

Polyester has a high drapability. Cotton usually has medium drapery. Linen has good drapery, can perfectly fit the figure. Wool has good drapery, which makes it suitable for creating voluminous and complex draperies.

Polyester is characterized by low hydroscopicity. Cotton has good hydroscopicity, absorbing moisture and drying quickly. Flax also absorbs moisture well, which makes it comfortable in hot weather. Wool can absorb moisture, but retains heat even when wet.

Polyester has a low dust capacity. Cotton is prone to dust capacity, can accumulate dust quickly. Linen tends to be dusty, but is easy to clean when washed. Wool is usually less susceptible to dust capacity due to the natural wool fiber ^[19].

Polyester has high thermal protection properties. Cotton has low thermal protection properties and is not suitable for winter clothing. Linen usually has a high shrinkage after washing, especially at high temperatures. Wool is subject to shrinkage after washing, but usually less than cotton ^[4].

Polyester is characterized by low thread shedding. Cotton can be prone to thread shedding due to their characteristics. Flax tends to shed threads, especially in coarser fabrics. Wool is usually less prone to thread shedding due to the structure of the wool ^[15].

Polyester is characterized by an average extension of the threads. Cotton can have a significant extension of the threads in the seams when worn and washed. Linen can also exhibit thread stretching in seams, especially on coarser fabrics. Wool most often has a small extension of the threads in the seams due to the structure of the wool ^[20].

conclusion

For military sports suits of Russian servicemen, fabrics with high strength, wear resistance and good breathability are most suitable. From the end of the 19th century to the 21st century, the use of fabrics for military clothing has undergone significant changes. At the end of the 19th century, military clothing was mainly made from natural fabrics such as cotton, wool and linen. In the 20th and 21st centuries, fabrics became more durable, lightweight, quick-drying and resistant to external factors. For example, polyester has become actively used.

According to the totality of all properties, the choice of fabric depends on the specific needs and conditions of use. Wool is great for winter clothing due to its high thermal protection properties, but may be less suitable for sportswear due to its low breathability. Cotton, linen is suitable for summer clothes because of its good breathability, but may be less wear-resistant. Polyester is good for sportswear due to its good wear resistance, but is less suitable for clothing with high thermal protection properties

Thus, modern fabrics for military clothing have a wide range of properties that provide optimal protection and comfort when performing military tasks in various operating conditions.