Sociology of Fashion in the XXth Century: from the Classical Concepts to their Perception in Modern Theories


	Culture and Art Reference: Gur'yanova M.V. Sociology of Fashion in the XXth Century: from the Classical Concepts to their Perception in Modern Theories // Culture and Art. 2015. № 6. P. 618-631. URL: https://en.nbpublish.com/library_read_article.php?id=67058 Gur'yanova M.V. Sociology of Fashion in the XXth Century: from the Classical Concepts to their Perception in Modern Theories Abstract: Fashion is the phenomenon, which has already become an essential part of pop culture and has its influence practically on everyone, but in the field of science the attitude to this phenomenon hitherto is a bit skeptical. Nevertheless sociology is a branch of science which takes fashion seriously trying to construct theoretical investigations in order to define the role played by fashion in society. Thereby the subject of the present research is the analysis of different theories of fashion in sociology as well as the attempt to trace back the genesis of the fundamental classical theories in following concepts. The study of these theoretical models of fashion in terms of their historical perspective will lead us to the description of the essential features of fashion discovered through analyzing the 'intersection points' of different fashion theories. A big variety of fashion theories is caused by the nature of fashion that always changes its meaning at different historical epochs. That’s why the analysis of the genesis of fashion theories is one of the ways to understand the essense of the phenomenon of fashion. Keywords: fashion, imitation, body, ambivalence, identity, fashion actors, infiltration theory, conspicious consumption, democracy, gender This article can be downloaded freely in PDF format for reading. Download article References 1. Tard G. Zakony podrazhaniya. – SPb.: F. Pavlenkov, 1892 2. Spenser G. Opyty nauchnye, politicheskie i filosofskie. T.3 / Per. s angl. pod red. N. A. Rubakina.-Minsk: Sovr. literator, 1998 3. Tolstykh V.I. Moda kak sotsial'nyy fenomen // Moda: za i protiv/ Obshch. red. i sost. V.I. Tolstykh. – M.: Iskusstvo, 1973 4. Laver J. Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution to the Present Day. George G. Harrap & Co. 1945 5. Sapir E. Fashion // Encyclopedia of the social sciences. Vol 6. New York: Macmillan. 1931 6.Spencer H. The principles of sociology. Vol. II. New York: D. Appleton and company. 1898 7. Lipovetskiy Zh. Imperiya efemernogo. Moda i ee sud'ba v sovremennom obshchestve / Per. s fr. Yu. Rozenberg. — M.: Novoe literaturnoe obozrenie, 2012 8. Zombart V. Narodnoe khozyaystvo i moda. K voprosu o sovremennykh formakh // Izbrannye raboty. M.: Izdatel'skiy dom «Territoriya budushchego», 2005. S. 321-343 9. Braudel F. Civilization and capitalism. I5th-I8th Century. Vol. I The structures of everyday life. William Collins Sons & Co Ltd. 1985 10. Bourdieu P. Haute Couture and Haute Culture // Sociology in question. SAGE Publications. 1993 11. Bourdieu P. Deisault Y. Le couturier et sa griffe: contribution à une théorie de la magie // Actes de la recherché en sciences sociales. Vol. 1, n. 1, 1975. pp. 7-36 12. Stanovlenie figury dizaynera v kachestve khudozhnika na rubezhe XIX-XX vv. sm. Troy Nancy J. Couture culture: a study in modern art and fashion. The MIT Press. 2003 13. Blumer H. Fashion: From class differentiation to collective selection // The Sociological Quarterly. 1969. No. 10 14. Rogers E.M. Diffusion of Innovations, New York: Free Press. 1983 15. Gofman A.B. Moda i lyudi. Novaya teoriya modnogo povedeniya. 3-e izd. – Spb.: Piter, 2004 16. Bodriyyar Zh. Simvolicheskiy obmen i smert'/Per. s fr. S.N. Zenkina – M.: Dobrosvet, 2000 17. Veblen T. Teoriya prazdnogo klassa / Per. s angl. Sorokinoy S. G. – M.: Progress, 1984 18. Zimmel' G. Izbrannoe. T. 2. Sozertsanie zhizni. – M.: Yurist, 1996 19. Davis F. Fashion, culture, and identity. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 1992 20. Tseëlon E. The Masque of Femininity. The Presentation of Woman in Everyday Life. London: Sage. 1995 21. Uilson E. Oblachennye v mechty: moda i sovremennost' / Per. s angl. E. Demidovoy, E. Kardash, E. Lyaminoy. – M.: Novoe literaturnoe obozrenie, 2012 22. Goffman I. Predstavlenie sebya drugim v povsednevnoy zhizni. – KANON-press-Ts, 2000 23. Craik J. The face of fashion. Cultural studies in fashion. London, New York: Routledge, 1993 24. Entwistle J. The Dressed Body //Entwistle J., Wilson E. (eds). Body Dressing. New York: Berg, 2001 25. Lurie A. The language of clothes. Henry Hott and Co, 2000 26. Flügel J.C. The psychology of Clothes. London: Hogarth Press, 1930 27. Karleyl' T. Sartor Resartus. Zhizn' i mysli Gerr' Teyfel'sdreka v trekh knigakh / Per. s angl. N. Gorbova. – M.: Tipo-litografiya I.N. Kushnerev' i Ko, 1902 28. Kaiser S. B., Nagasawa R. H., Hutton S.S. Construction of an SI Theory of Fashion // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. Vol. 13, № 3, 1995, pp. 172-182 Razlichie modeli «sistema mody» i populistkoy modeli analiza mody vvoditsya v kn. Davis F. Fashion, culture, and identity. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 1992. p. 200 29. Field G. A. The status float phenomenon: The upward diffusion of innovation // Business Horizons, 1970, vol. 13, issue 4, pp. 45-52 30. King C. W., Ring L. J. (1980) The Dynamics of Style and Taste Adoption and Diffusion: Contributions From Fashion Theory // Advances in Consumer Research. Vol. 07, pp. 13-16. 31. Bell Q. On Human Finery. The Classic Study of Fashion Through the Ages. Great Britain: Allison & Busby, 1992 32. Khollander E. Vzglyad skvoz' odezhdu / Per. s angl. V. Mikhaylina. – M.: Novoe literaturnoe obozrenie, 2015 33. Kroeber A.L. On the principle of order in civilization as exemplified by changes of fashion // American Antropologist. № 21, 1919, pp. 235-263 34. Richardson J., Kroeber A.L. Three centuries of women’s dress fashions. A quantitative analysis // Antropological records. Vol. 5, No. 2, pp. 111-154. Berkley, Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1940 35. Lowe J. W.G., Lowe E. D. Cultural Pattern and Process: A study of Stylistic Change in Women’s Dress // American anthropologist. № 84, 1982, pp. 521-544 36. Young A. B. Recurring Cycles of Fashion: 1760-1937. New York: Harper, 1937 37. Bart R. Sistema mody. Stat'i po semiotike kul'tury. – M., 2003

Journals

Books

Gur'yanova M.V. Sociology of Fashion in the XXth Century: from the Classical Concepts to their Perception in Modern Theories