Voronina, O. A. Fashion as a Factor of Gender Identity

Abstract: Theories of fashion are viewed from the point of view of their influence on identity. Without opposing to classical philosophical and sociological concepts, the author, however, believes that interpretation of fashion as a semiotic (Roland Barthes) and symbolic (Jean Baudrillard) phenomenon. Based on that approach, the author of the article analyzes how the system of signs representing fashion and vestimentum codes created by fashion influence the process of identity formation. Increasing role of fashion under the conditions of globalization and acceptance of cultural and national diversity is due to the fact that choice of identity is becoming a more complex process. However, searches for individuality haven’t become easier because it is appearing to be even more difficult to find ourselves among numerous and equal models of Self. The simplest way out can be sometimes trying out different types of identity in the form of a collage, mosaic or both. Very often the simplest way to present one’s identity is to present one’s appearance (i.e. body or clothes). The author of the article shows how the codes of Eurocentric fashion are transformed or even rejected from ethnocultural and gender positions. The author also considers the development of fashion in Russia after the Perestroika period and concludes that in Russia fashion in many ways is related to traditional gender identity: femininity is related to glamour and masculinity is related to brutality and success in business.

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