About the evolution of Chinese costumes and their reflection in the "new Chinese style"

Khan Wenqi Bachelor's degree; Department of Russian Language; Northeastern University of Forestry 150049, China, Harbin Region, Harbin, 26 Wo Hing Road, office 391 1548322072@qq.com

Chzhao xiuling Professor; Department of Russian Language; Northeastern University of Forestry 26 Vo Hing Road, office 415, Harbin, 150040, Russia 1548322072@qq.com

Introduction

Chinese clothing has undergone a thousand-year evolution: from totem signs to court costumes reflecting the national aesthetic and cultural heritage. The emergence of the "new Chinese style", the reinterpretation of traditional costume in the spirit of modernity, gave it a new lease of life. Today, this cultural phenomenon is only fragmentally reflected in some articles by Russian and mainly Chinese scientists ^{[1, 10, 11]}. The historical evolution of costumes and their innovative application in the "new Chinese style" have not yet been the subject of a separate study. However, the "new Chinese style", which is a harmonious symbiosis of traditional and modern, is now successfully integrated into the modern aesthetics of clothing, traditional costumes shine with a new luster and become a bridge connecting the past and the future.

1. The origin of Chinese costumes

The origins of Chinese clothing date back to the end of the distant Paleolithic. During this period, people used natural resources to create costumes, which contributed to the birth of Chinese clothing culture ^[2]. According to historical records and archaeological finds, Yuchao is considered the ancestor of folk clothing made from animal skins, this period is an important milestone in the development of clothing in China. Bone needles about 25,000 years old and other objects have been discovered in cave ruins at the top of Zhoukoudian Mountain, proving that ancient people mastered the technology of sewing with bone needles. They were naturally taken from improvised materials, which testifies to the wisdom and creativity of the ancients ^[2]. At first, clothing design was simple and mainly used to protect against harsh living conditions. After the agrarian revolution, the widespread use of cotton and silk not only increased the comfort of clothing, but also contributed to the prosperity of fine art, its elements are deeply rooted in Chinese fashion ^[1].

During the Zhou Dynasty (1046-256 BC), clothing became an important manifestation of class differences. The aristocracy respected their long, bulky robes and thus demonstrated their noble origin. Ordinary people wore simpler and shorter clothes to meet their daily needs. This difference in clothing continued and developed during the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD). At that time, men's clothing was mostly robes and trousers, with an emphasis on practicality and simplicity. Women's clothing consisted of a layered dress and coat that displayed the charm and unique style of a woman^[2].

2. The development of aesthetics of Chinese costumes

2.1 The rise of the Silk Road and the spread of Hanfu

The brilliant years of the Han Dynasty (206-220 BC) witnessed the magnificent transition of silk from a practical fabric to an attribute of luxury. During this period, the state innovatively applied double taxation of grain and silk, emphasizing the important place of silk in the economy ^[2]. At court, silk was not only a salary for officials, but also a symbol of power. Among the people, silk ownership became a symbol of high status ^[3]. The superior warmth of silk fabric, gorgeous appearance, tough texture and lightness have won wide recognition. However, the high price made silk a luxury for a few. To protect national interests, the export of silk was banned and the relevant manufacturing technologies were also hidden.

Nevertheless, the leak of a court secret order from the supreme ruler (the "exalted head") accidentally opened a window for the widespread distribution of silk. The Byzantine emperor visionarily began to breed silkworms with the help of monks, thanks to which the fame of silk quickly spread throughout the empire and Asia Minor. Russia did not know the secrets of silk until the 16th century ^[3].. Today, silk, along with porcelain and tea, has become a treasure of Chinese culture. The heyday of the Han Dynasty and the emergence of the Hanfu costume contributed to the spread of the Fengxiang dragon pattern, which is deeply rooted in Chinese culture.

Han Dynasty clothing is distinguished by inventive collars designed in ancient times ^[4]. The wide and low collar of the coat deftly outlines the figure of the clothed, there is also an internal layered collar, creating fantastic visual effects of a "three-story dress". The underwear was as white as snow, light and elegant, the cuff design was spacious and comfortable, and a simple sleeveless shirt complemented the suit. Its overall shape is fresh and original, as if it leads people to an extraordinary wonderland. The gold belt buckle, its various shapes and bright colors add status and elegance to men ^{[5, p. 487]}. The knife on his waist, although it was not a military tool, but its cold blade testified to the heroic soul of the men of the Han Dynasty ^[4].

2.2 The period of integration of a single multinational culture: the Qing Dynasty

The growth of the Manchurian Empire led to a new era of Chinese fashion. The nobility and officials were strictly limited in wearing certain costumes, the unique charm of which later gained popularity among the general public. Although the headdresses of Manchu officials are very different from those of the Ming Dynasty, the design of the collar has been preserved, reflecting continuity in cultural evolution.

The art of Qing Dynasty clothing is impressive. Men's clothing is especially colorful. The elegance of the robe, the comfort of unlined clothing, the convenience of short skirts, and the practicality of the vest satisfied people's needs for clothing for different occasions ^[6]. The vest, this versatile piece of clothing with its unique charm, has gained wide popularity. By the end of the Qing Dynasty, the tendency to wear vests gradually grew and became a new fashion. Among them, the baturukonkamshurd vest attracts special attention with its unique design — the neat arrangement of thirteen buttons on the chest. This vest is not only beautiful and practical, but also reflects the values and tastes of the warriors, as well as the high-ranking dignitaries who were at court. Gradually, the fashion for such a vest spread to ordinary officials, becoming an ideal choice for them to show their social rank and taste when they attended semi-official events.

Manchurian women had very peculiar hair ornaments — dianzi. They were made of iron or rattan, on the black frame of which intricate patterns with emeralds were attached. The hairstyles of Manchurian women themselves often had a "two-headed" shape ("forked head"). However, for various reasons, the bundle gradually became flat and turned into a "head with one hieroglyph." At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the tufts of hair were already located higher and turned into a full-fledged decoration of "Da La Wing" ^[2].

3. Heritage and innovation in the new Chinese style

3.1 Changes in modern Chinese clothing: Zhongshan and Cheongsam costumes

Today, the "Sun Yat-sen culture" has become widespread in China, which is named after an authoritative Chinese revolutionary who lived at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. It successfully combines elements of Chinese and Western clothing, creating a classic masterpiece of Zhongshan costume (the Mandarin pronunciation of Sun Yat-sen's name). This two-piece suit, consisting of a jacket with a stand-up turn-down collar and wide trousers, has become an important milestone in shaping the style of modern Chinese clothing. Zhongshan is a manifestation of Mr. Sun Yat-sen's deep understanding of the culture of clothing, who advocated simplicity and convenience in a casual business suit. Its design has Western origins, is known all over the world, but is deeply rooted in Chinese soil and has become a bridge connecting tradition and modernity. The Chinese tunic suit with a stand—up collar and four pockets is an invention of the predecessor of the Chinese revolution, Mr. Sun Yat-sen. The costume is based on the broad traditions of European and American clothing, combines the characteristics of Japanese student clothing (Chinese tunic suit) and Chinese clothing, but is known worldwide as Chinese clothing ^[7].

At the same time, women's clothing has quietly evolved in the flow of history. After the Chinese revolution, a modest but attractive qipao dress with a slit in the front and five buttons became widespread in the middle of the twentieth century. Its origins can be found back in the Manchurian Empire, where women wore dresses with a high collar and a wide right hem ^[7]. The traditional Manchurian robe was gradually simplified, forming a national dress with long skirts and straight collars (Cheongsam). This transformation process has gradually become a part of the national culture and art, demonstrating the unique charm and style of the women of China.

The Zhongshan suit and Cheongsam robe are important symbols of modern Chinese clothing culture, and they have an influence that crosses the boundaries of fashion and culture. They have breathed new life into the clothing industry, breaking traditional bonds and promoting diversity and individual appearance of clothing. At the same time, these two suits are also important carriers of political culture. Due to their unique style and cultural associations, they convey the spiritual aspirations of the Chinese nation and become an important link connecting the Celestial Empire with the whole world.

3.2 The advent of the "new Chinese style" clothing boom

In recent years, the Chinese clothing industry has been undergoing a massive transformation from tradition to the realities of today. It is associated with the emergence of the "new Chinese style", which combines the beauty of the ancients and the practicality of modernity. He quickly became a new favorite of the fashion industry. From the beginning of the year 2024 to the present, this style continues to occupy the first place in search queries, its features are especially attractive to young people. On social media platforms, such clothes were readily displayed by stars, actively recommended by fashion bloggers, and also shown daily by ordinary users. All this significantly contributed to the spread and popularization of the "new Chinese style". In the Little Red Book, the number of notes related to the new style of clothing exceeded 2.1 million, and the popularity of the content reached more than 138,000 views ^[8]. At the same time, on the Taobao e-commerce platform, the number of one-day searches for Song Dynasty-style clothing also reached a new high: more than 44.48 billion. This style demonstrates its huge market potential and a high degree of demand from consumers.

The term "new Chinese style" has no single interpretation, and for the younger generation it means primarily clothing that combines traditional elements of Chinese costumes with modern fashion trends ^[9]. In this regard, Yang Peo Tao's observation is also relevant that Chinese clothing has always had an important value dominant, which "... allowed modern Chinese masters to begin exploring new design platforms, to discover and master a new way of fashion development" ^[10]. Modern clothing uses, for example, elements of a traditional robe, as well as jacquard, knotted batik, antique embroidery and other ancient technologies. Young people find more opportunities for creativity and self-expression in the new style, as well as contact with the values of oriental aesthetics.

3.3 "New Chinese Style" and global fashion trends

In recent years, the Chinese fashion industry has been experiencing a remarkable renaissance, mainly due to the steady growth of the Chinese economy and the emergence of young designers and brands. They boldly innovate and combine the values of traditional Chinese culture with modern design methods and material technologies, creating unique fashion products ^[9]. Today, Chinese clothing has established itself in the global fashion industry with its diversity and innovation, and many local designer brands are beginning to shine on the international scene ^[11]. It is obvious that in the coming years, Chinese fashion will maintain this powerful momentum of development, further expand and deepen the processes of integrating traditional Chinese culture into modern trends, launch more clothing collections on a national basis and using the latest technologies to lead the current trends of global fashion ^[11].

Fashion brand-building activities have been booming in China in recent years. Local designers, thanks to their deep understanding and unique interpretation of Chinese culture, have successfully created several of their own brands and are striving to bring them to the world market (see, for example, Li-Ning, Shein, Anta) ^[9]. The growth of Chinese brands will undoubtedly influence global fashion trends.

Currently, the Chinese fashion industry is actively responding to the global call for sustainable development, reducing the environmental burden through the introduction of durable materials, optimizing production processes, and a commitment to protecting labor rights and interests. This positive trend is expected to strengthen in the coming years and attract even more Chinese brands, which will help them promote and strengthen their market positions.

Thus, Chinese clothing has undergone a thousand-year evolution, each stage has a unique style that has left a deep imprint on the cultural heritage. The "New Chinese Style" subtly conveys the essence of traditional costumes, skillfully combines modern design, bold innovations and classic elements. This trend shows that Chinese fashion design is entering a new era, it will be even more prominent on the global fashion scene to lead its leading trends.